roarfish

Japan's four seasons.

As I look out my study widow, there is enough light left in this late afternoon to see the early Spring rain of Kyushu falling quite heavily, as it has been since before sun-up this morning.

Ume blossom attracting attention in early spring, Osaka Castle park.

And it is warm, at last, given that this passing winter has been the coldest in the five years I have been here, and one of the very coldest on record. But the warm rain signals the end, or if not the end then close to it, of winter. And the pending arrival of sakura, or cherry blossom season.

The ume, or plum blossom that precedes the cherry flowers by a few weeks, is already out, in colors ranging from a gaudy coral pink thru pale pinks to white. Unlike the cherries, the flowers tend to stay on the trees until they are brown, and fall as a whole flower, whereas the revered cherry blossom rains petals down continuously with even the gentlest breeze, almost from the moment the flowers open. And a strong wind, or heavy rain, will strip the trees very quickly. The cherry blossoms are much more subtle, and delicate in color and constitution, than the plum.

The new face of shopping in Japan.

The post-war economic miracle in Japan, which created disposable income on a grand scale for Japanese consumers, resulted in famous shopping districts such as the Ginza in Tokyo, with its large department stores such as Mitsukoshi, and Daimaru, amongst many others. These places became shrines of opulence, where shoppers could indulge themselves in the very latest from the fashion houses of Chanel, Armani and the like. But more recently, two things have happened in Japan that have had a serious effect on the way Japanese shop.

Canal City, Fukuoka. The artificial canal reflects Fukuoka's waterways. A trademark Jerde Partnership walkway connects the Hyatt Hotel on the right with the shopping centre.

First, there was a downturn in the economy, lasting more than a decade. This made the Japanese consumer a little more wary, more thrifty, and more inclined to seek a little more for their money than just the ownership of name-brand goods. Second, and seemingly always present in the Japanese consumer, was the desire for new pleasures, new ways to be entertained, new places where the hard-earned and very restricted moments of leisure could be better spent. Enter the mid-city shopping and entertainment complex. And now that the economy is back on track, and Japanese consumers have regained the confidence to crack into their considerable savings, and spend money on themselves again, these complexes are proving to be just what the doctor ordered.

Hard rock in Osaka Castle park.

A lot less well-known than the Harajuku girls in Tokyo, or their predecessors, the Elvis impersonators of the same address (the remnants of which can still be seen around the entrance to Yoyogi Park in Harajuku), are these punk and rock bands that assemble along the road between the JR Osaka-jo station, and the Osaka castle itself, near the Osaka business park. They gather there on weekends, mainly Sundays, complete with road crews, which are needed to lug and assemble the incredible amount of gear they have, and belt it out, for free.

Judging by the expressions, and rehearsed routines they go through, they are very serious about it all. Bands of four or five members, mostly young males, seem to be the norm. They have the complete set of stage gear, expensive guitars, full drum kits, loudspeaker towers, amps, foldbacks, synthesizers, mixers, microphones, all fed by electricity from who knows where, with miles of cord snaking off to some remote power source. And the equipment is not cheap, often being state of the art gear that you would see top concert acts using. Quite incredible to see all of that gear assembled for a free, outdoor busking event.

On a cold, grey winter Sunday in Osaka Castle park, with the Osaka Business Park as a backdrop, one rock band belts it out, while another warms up with a sound check, waiting its turn to perform free for its admiring audience of mainly teenage girls.

And they make lots of noise. But it is all well-mannered, and seemingly well organised, with each band (five groups on the day I was there, and it was only midday, so probably more to follow) taking turns to do sets. There were a few people dancing, and a couple of street performers out front doing fire tricks, etc., but most of the growing audience had come for the music. Osaka castle attracts quite a lot of tourists on the weekends, of all age groups, although most of the mums and dads hurried the children away from the noise, so the passing public was obviously not the intended audience. But there were more and more teenagers arriving, probably the dedicated fans of each of these groups, and the audience had numbered several hundred by the time we left. I'm not sure what attracts the bands to do it. The hope of discovery, perhaps, or a wallet-consuming love for their hobby, just seeking attention, or a genuine desire and need to entertain?

RK

New Kyoto Station

The new Kyoto Station building opened in 1997, amid some controversy regarding its suitability for a city like Kyoto, with its abundance of old temples and shrines, tiny historic streets and restaurants, and ancient scenes; the main reasons it attracts so many tourists. Kyoto was not bombed during WW2, so many of its historic treasures are still intact, making it unique in Japan in terms of a major city. It was the capital of Japan in the Heian period, and the opening of the station building coincided with the 1200th anniversary of the commencement of that period.

A view across the concourse of the station, showing the escalators giving access to the roof, and the department store.

A bizarre Japanese invention - the love hotel.

If you are wandering the streets of any city in Japan, on a cold, dark night, desperately searching for accommodation, and you happen across a very brightly lit, very ornate hotel with an odd name and bizarre decor, best to give it a miss and keep looking. You have probably found (accidently, because I am sure you wouldn't be looking for one on purpose; would you?) one of Japan's most bizarre and unique cultural creations - the love hotel.

A 'Christmas Chapel' love hotel in Nihonbashi, Osaka. The Christmas facade only stays up for the holiday season.

Recycling experiment at its most useful

Stylish new sports complex in Saga, Japan, almost completely powered from burnable garbage.

Some years ago, largely due to putting economic development before good housekeeping, Japan probably had a poor reputation when it came to the environment. And it was deserved, what with Minimata, and the condition of air and water around large cities like Tokyo. But in recent times, that reputation has been turned around. Japan played a strong leadership role at the Kyoto conference, it is at the forefront of hybrid car development, and has instigated programs that have reduced its domestic pollution considerably. And it has become a significant player in recycling technology.

At a local level, here in Saga, we have the benefit of a concerted recycling effort. Not only do we have a sophisticated separation and recycling program, but what burnable waste we do have to get rid of has been turned into a very useful energy source. The program is experimental, but so far is working well, and will serve as a model for many other municipalities across Japan, and overseas.

Japanese porcelain at Okawachiyama

Porcelain ware manufactured at Okawachiyama. These plates and small bowls feature the blue glaze that is popular in this village.

The area around Arita and Imari, in Saga, are historically very famous for ceramics, and porcelain in particular. The first porcelain clay (kaolin) deposits in Japan were found here. A Korean potter by the name of Risampei was bought to Arita by the feudal lord of Saga, Lord Nabeshima, and he discovered kaolin clay in 1616 at Izumiyama (Izumi mountain). The porcelain ware made in Arita was transported by boat from Imari, the local port near Arita, to Nagasaki, were it was shipped all over the world. Called Imari ware after the port, it was sought after all across Europe. Within 60 years over two million pieces of porcelain from Arita had been exported. It was forbidden by the Shogun, Tokugawa, to sell porcelain ware to Japanese commoners, saving it for the nobility, and for export.

'Kawaii' characters in Japan.

A granite and marble Hello Kitty statue donated to the Kofu Shinto shrine by the local stonemasons guild. She really has gone upmarket!

I guess everybody in Japan, and a huge amount of people in many other countries, know who or what 'Hello Kitty' is. The Sanrio Company's kawaii (Japanese for cute and vulnerable) character must be one of the most successful marketing devices ever created. The simple line drawn kitten adorns every consumer item imaginable, from fishpaste to handbags. You can even get a pink 'Hello Kitty' toaster in Japan that will leave the image of her cute face on your toast slices at breakfast! And such tastefully adorned celebrities as Mariah Carey, Britney Spears and Paris Hilton own very visible items of Hello Kitty clothing and jewelry, adding (for some, anyway) to the attraction of the brand.

'Peko', the Fujiya Cake Shop mascot, licking her lips in anticipation. First seen in 1950, she pre-dates 'Kitty' by nearly quarter of a century.

Although arguably the most successful, 'Kitty' is not the only, nor the oldest, kawaii character seen around in contemporary Japan. She has only been with us since 1974, originally created then by Sanrio as just another of their attempts at a merchandising prop. In 1950, a very popular and much loved Japanese character, 'Peko', the Fujiya cake shop mascot, and in 1969, 'Doraemon', a robot cat, made their respective debuts. And both of them are still around today, still holding down a firm place in Japanese popular culture.

Getting rid of the devil

Men born in the year of the dog throw small packets of beans into the waiting crowd, who, regardless of their age, scramble to catch them with all the vigor of a frenzied rugby scrum!

At Setsubun, the start of the New Year on the lunar calendar (February 3rd. this year), people  all over Japan will go down to the local shrine to have beans thrown to them. This ritual is called Mamemaki, or bean throwing. Chosen citizens whose birth year coincides with the lunar year symbol, currently the year of the dog, will throw small packets of beans away, and at the same time chant 'Oni wa soto, Fuku wa uchi', or 'Out with the devil, in with good fortune'. It is a way of getting rid of evil spirits, and welcoming good fortune into our lives.  Also, if we can catch or pick up enough beans to coincide with our age, and eat them, it is supposed to bring us good health for the coming year.

I took these pictures  at Yutoku shrine, in Saga prefecture. The shrine priest  gets into the act, and the crowd waits  below to  catch the beans.

Traditionally, the beans were roasted soy beans, but these days it seems that anything resembling a bean will suffice - rice crackers, peanuts and even almonds are used. This ritual is also carried out in homes, with either the father or mother throwing beans at the children, who represent the devils.

Then the beans are gathered up, and each family member eats their age in beans, bringing the whole family health. Often masks are worn by the family members to represent the devils, and good fortune, as they go from room to room chanting and throwing beans.

RK

Good explanation of history of setsubun.

More details of setsubun here.

Tokyo modern architecture

Mori Tower, Rappongi Hills

Tokyo is a city is a city of amazing diversity, and nowhere is that more evident than in its modern architecture. If you stay away from one of Tokyo's main business centers for just a couple of years, chances are you will hardly recognize the skyline when you next visit. Tokyo doesn't just have one district of skyscraper and high rise buildings. It has several, each of which is probably the equivalent in size to many of the world's major city skyscraper districts. And Tokyo has incredible diversity in its modern architecture. From small police boxes and capsule hotels, to the Mori Tower at Rappongi Hills, and the huge office towers of the Nishi Shinjiku district. Many Tokyo buildings are very unique in design and shape, as compared to the propensity to build plain rectangular glass bricks in many other world cities. Of course Tokyo has its share of these, but it also has great variety. Tokyo is a good place to view the work of Japanese architectural firms, but the good work on view is not just Japanese. Tokyo offers opportunities to architects from all around the globe, so it is a great place to view a strong representative collection of modern buildings.