The ancient ruins at Yoshinogari

One of the down sides to not being able to speak or read Japanese much, is that you can miss out on the full understanding of something, and miss the good stories that people have. Yoshinogari, an archeological dig and historic reconstruction of an ancient site in Saga, on the southern island of Kyushu, is just such an example for me.

Reconstructed fence and sentry box at Yoshinogari.

I had been past Yoshinogari on the train many times. I could see the reconstructed huts, and sentry towers, and see the overall size of the site, and the very nice administation buildings, housing a museum and cafe, amongst other facilities. And whilst it looked interesting, and impressive, it was to me just another historic reconstruction. It wasn't until I had a free, sunny day on my hands, and nothing better to photograph, that I decided to drive the 45 minutes from home and take a close look.

It was certainly an eye-opener. It is beautifully reconstructed, but at ground level, you can see the actual ancient building foundations, and underground dwellings, and the original moats that have been reclaimed and restored. You can see relics of the building methods, and old tombs with their pottery burial urns intact. And in the museum. you can see ancient pottery dug up from this site, linking it's history to ancient China and Korea. And royal jewelery, marking it as having links with an ancient royalty, making it's importance even more significant. The reconstructed huts, watchtowers and grain storage sheds are extremely well done, and utilize the original building methods very faithfully.
Thatched roof of an underground dwelling, and elevated grain storehouses.

The visit sparked my interest, and when I had the opportunity to sit down in front of the tv and watch a documentary on the initial discovery of the site, with my wife translating the story as it unfolded, I discovered the fuller facts of Yoshinogari, and the real human story of how it came to be discovered, and how lucky we are to have it at all. This is one of those feel-good, slightly weepy stories of good triumphing over evil, but in this case, it is a true one!
Sentry box, and section of original moat. Roof truss detail of underground dwelling.

Tadashi Hichita, a local high school history teacher, used to walk with his son Tadaaki around the low hills of Yoshinogari, completely fascinated by them. He had found many pieces of broken pottery on his walks, and was convinced the site was hiding an important, ancient secret. He published a thesis based on his findings, outlining the view that there had been an ancient kingdom of pre-historic age at Yoshinogari. Unfortunately for Tadashi, no-one was too interested.
Schoolchildren getting an on-site history lesson, and washing polished stones that they have found and made.

In 1986 the land was earmarked for an industrial park development, in the hope that it would bring corporations, and hence employment for the local people of Saga. Tadaaki, grown up now, and ironically working for the cultural section of Saga Prefectural Office, was appointed to be team leader of the body that would examine the site before development. Tadaaki, hoping to bring his now deceased father's dream to come true, approached the task with vigor, and unearthed several important artifacts indicating an ancient community.

Torn between the need to build the industrial park for employment, and the possible significance of their finds, the team decided to wait a few days before proceeding with the excavation, so that an expert from Kyoto could be consulted. In the last days of their research digging, Tadaaki and his team found an ancient sword, and blue glass ornaments that symbolised the ancient presence of royalty. The expert declared the site to be of major significance, to be preserved at all costs. Further excavation have shown the site to be one of the best, and the largest site of Yoyoi remains in Japan. And now the local people are employed at the site, helping with the excavation and reconstruction, and benefitting from the huge influx of tourists that the discovery has brought. They lost the chance to work in the factories, but gained a new pride and respect for the place where they lived.
A local resident employed as an instructor, demonstrating how fire was made. Visiting schoolchildren polishing stones.

In 1990, Yoshinogari Historical Park was opened to the public. It now attracts around half a million visitors a year, many of them schoolchildren from across Japan, who can experience a history lesson first hand, and take part in many practical demonstrations of the ancient civilization, such as stone polishing, pottery and making fire. The site continues to be excavated and reconstructed, and will continue to grow in significance as more discoveries are made. And it provides a fitting working monument to the perseverance of one father, and one son, who helped his father's dream come true. And to the local people, who selflessly put aside their immediate needs for the good of the whole Japanese community.

RK

Comments

[Frank Hirata]

I. 81 years of age, plan to visit the Site with gran children, 11 and 12. in early April, 2008. We are excited.

[Yoshinogari JET]

I live in Yoshinogari now as an ALT, I love the park! It also has an awesome playground and mini-golf site near the west entrance, great place for a BBQ. I'm glad I came across this article, I didn't know the background story of the high school teacher. There's a fire festival in November every year too, very cool effects.

[Jeff Lyons]

Ray! Amazing who you run into on the net! In Japan!!! You may remember me from Pemara.
Interesting site, you're still a talented shutter thumper too.
Cheers, Jeff.

[Ray Kinnane]

Hi Jeff! Pretty amazing to catch up this way. I live in Japan now (hence the blog). What are you up to these days?

Ray

[Jeff Lyons]

Hi Ray, Thanks for the reply...not sure I expected one. I have lived in the Adelaide hills since 1998. I'm now retired, yet have never been so busy. I've lived in interesting times (still do) Drop me an e-mail for the full story... I don't want to bore your readers!
Strange... I remember a friend of yours asking "What is Roarfish?" and you've made it real!!
Cheers, Jeff.