The Ginza may be the best known of any of Tokyo's city districts. It is currently going through a rebirth as Tokyo's prime shopping district, after the economic downturn of recent times forced frugality on the big spending Japanese shoppers of the bubble economy.
The main Ginza intersection, opposite the Wako building. Even on a rainy weekday the streets are busy again.
But rebirth is not new to the Ginza, having been through it several times before, for a variety of reasons.
Shortly after a massive fire had consumed the district in 1872, the Meiji government, as part of their Western oriented modernisation, had English architect Thomas Waters re-construct the street in a Georgian style, using brick, a relatively unknown building material to the Japanese. The installation of electric lighting and a horse drawn trolley car in 1882 lifted the profile of the main street, and it became popular as a high class retail area.
The old Wako building is a Ginza landmark. New stores like the Apple store, and the old favourites, like Chanel, whose window is shown reflecting the Loius Vuitton store opposite, bring out the fashion conscious, even to buy shoes for their poodle!
The Great Kanto earthquake of 1923 leveled most of Tokyo, including the Ginza area. It was quickly rebuilt, assuming its status as Tokyo's major shopping district. The now famous Wako department store and landmark clock tower were constructed at this time.
During the hardship of World War 2 Japan, when retail goods were in short supply, and financial hardship was the norm for Japanese families, the Ginza somewhat lost its status. It was leveled again towards the end of the War by the massive allied bombing raids on Tokyo. After the war, as part of Japan's post-war reconstruction, the Ginza rose again, to assume the status of prime shopping area, and at one point, at the height of Japan's economic bubble, claiming the title of the most expensive real estate in the world.
Post modern architecture, like the Dior building, and the Mikimoto pink building, are now appearing in the back streets, along with the beautiful International Forum, and small speciality shops like this contemporary version of the traditional Japanese sweet shop.
The recession of recent years once more forced frugality on the Japanese, but that seems to have now past, and the economy is again growing strong. And the Ginza is rebuilding, too. The back streets are seeing new architecture, such as the post-modern Mikimoto building, and the beautiful International Forum building, and small, exclusive boutiques are opening up. New, small French-style hotels are opening, the department stores are revitalized, the cafes and restaurants are back, and the shoppers have returned.
An interesting back street ice cream parlor, the closed main street on weekends creates good strolling space, a throwback to past times with this main street hat shop, whose goods are more likely to be worn by trendy young Japanese ladies these days, and the gold BMW seems to fit in front of the Cartier store.
The Ginza is alive, vibrant, and very well again, and looking to cement its status as the top retail area in a city of once more big spenders. Its big, wide main streets are full of people again, day and night, and it's backstreets have taken on a fresh, new look, attracting the young back from Shibuya and Shinjuku. The Ginza's lights are as bright as ever.
RK
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