The well known photograph or film clip of a Japanese bullet train, or shinkansen, traveling at high speed past a backdrop of Mt. Fuji, must be one of the world's best known images. The shinkansen is a travel icon, known throughout the globe as a rapid, safe, comfortable way to travel Japan. But as far as rail travel in Japan goes, the shinkansen is only a small part of the story. Sure, it is the flag bearer, the fastest and best known of Japan's trains, and a great way to travel between Japan's major cities. Japan has around 25,000 kilometers of express train rail lines, of which only 3,500 are for the shinkansen.
Limited express 'Kamome', running fast between Fukuoka and Nagasaki. This train will likely be replaced by a new shinkansen line in the near future.
Who uses the rest of the tracks? The vast network of limited express and express trains, that move all over Japan, also affording fast, comfortable travel between the major stops located along the shinkansen routes, and the many prefectural capitol cities, seaside cities and towns, mountain onsen destinations, ski resorts, and holiday and business destinations located away from Japan's main rail corridor. The shinkansen line, stretching from Fukuoka in the south to near Hokkaido (planned to go there soon) in the north, provides the backbone, and the shorter, fast express train routes complete the rest of the skeleton.
It is often stated that Japan is a small country, and compared on an Atlas to the likes of the U.S.A, Canada, Australia, India, China and Russia, it seems that this is so. But it is not that small. It is close to 2000 kilometers long, just taking in the main island group, almost the same distance as between Melbourne and Cairns, and that is not considered a short trip. It is longer than France and Spain combined, and France and Italy combined, and we don't usually imagine those distances as all that small. But Japan is narrow, being only 400 kilometers wide at it's thickest part, and as narrow as 100 kilometers in several places. This, coupled with Japan's wealth, and high population density (126 million people), has made the construction of an extremely useful rail network a very viable means of transport.
'Rail Star' shinkansen, a new, wider bodied shinkansen runs between Osaka and Fukuoka. It is fast, clean, quiet and comfortable. One of the new generation of bullet trains.
One interesting point is that the majority of users of this network, by far, are passengers. Although freight does travel by rail in Japan, it is mainly at night, after the passenger services have largely shut down, except for a few all-night sleeper trains. Even these will be phased out over the next few years, as the shinkansen is extended further. Due to the easy access to Japanese cities by sea, and the large number of coastal ports, most freight can arrive near its destination by sea, and then be moved by road to its final destination. So the railways have been free to concentrate mainly on setting up fast passenger services, and they have certainly done this better than any other country. It is possible, and very enjoyable, to travel to almost any destination within Japan by fast, comfortable, safe, well-serviced express train. And the myriad of very small towns not serviced directly by express can be reached by connecting local trains that complete the network.
Clockwise from top: 'Sonic' express train to Miyazaki, its interior, featuring unusual head rest designs, a steward on the 'Sonic' (note the bag design to match the seats), and the concourse of the new station building at Kyoto, a stunning piece of architecture, featuring the station, many restaurants, a luxury hotel, a department store and office buildings.
Of course trains have to compete with air travel, so they need to be fast, and they need to provide good service. Japanese trains meet this demand. The shinkansen has the advantage over air travel in that it arrives at stations right in the centre of major cities, and also connects to the myriad of fast local express trains, local trains and major city subway lines at stations along its route. And with trains, you can arrive minutes before the scheduled departure time, and keep your luggage with you. And the trains are more spacious, so you can work on them, eat more comfortably on them, and even relax and enjoy the view, which is usually limited in air travel. The shinkansen travels at speeds up to 300 km per hour, but the local expresses are not tardy, usually moving along at around 160 km per hour or more, terrain permitting.
Express between Fukuoka and Nagasaki, the 'Kamome', just after leaving Saga station.
When I travel in Japan, I love to do it by train. There are many memorable (and several quite famous) train routes in Japan, that afford good sightseeing en-route to your destination. The three hours from Sapporo to Hakodate moves you along the amazing, rugged coast of southern Hokkaido, past several beautiful, snow covered mountains, and offers you views of Hokkaido's birch forests along the way. The Shinano 'wideview' that runs from Osaka to Nagano, offers beautiful views of the Kiso river and surrounding rock formations, as it winds its way between the edge of the river valley. And there are many, many express trains like this in Japan. You can sit back, relax, eat an 'eki-ben' lunch (boxed obento purchased at all railway stations across Japan - very delicious, and much loved), and take in the sights. And if you didn't get time to buy your obento lunch on the station platform, it will be available on the train. Very smart, efficient hostesses move quietly through the train, selling obento, sandwiches, snacks, hot tea and coffee and other drinks. If you get to the station too early, many stations have hot food bars, such as ramen, oden or soba noodle shops located on the platforms, where you can eat lunch while waiting for your train, or between connecting services. The train trip becomes a memorable part of your holiday, not just a means of getting there.
Warm, friendly interior of noodle shop on Hakata station, and a view from the Sapporo to Hakodate express.
Some interesting statistical comparisons about train travel in Japan. It is about 1180 kilometers from Fukuoka to Tokyo. It takes the shinkansen about five and a half hours, and there are about twenty per day each way. It is 1000 kilometers from Melbourne to Sydney, it takes the train twelve hours, and there are two per day. Tokyo to Osaka is 550 kilometers, takes two and a half hours, and in peak times there are six trains per hour. Melbourne to Adelaide is 800 kilometers, takes ten hours, and there is one train per day. And there are very, very few rapid express trains servicing the coast or countryside in Australia. People have to use cars. Population density does give you some advantages.
So if you are planning a trip to Japan, investigate doing some of your traveling by train. The trains here are probably the cleanest, safest, fastest, most efficient and best serviced in the world. And that goes for all trains, right across the country's network. International visitors can take advantage of a Japan rail pass purchased in your home country, which allows very reasonable, unlimited amounts of travel on any JR train - shinkansen, express or local. I personally love the train service here - I don't like flying at all, but there is little need to in Japan.
RK
Hi Ray
Great blog. Since I went to Nagasaki last summer. I enjoyed your post very much too.
I was so impressed to see Maddona at Oura..
Thank you very much for your link, I will introduce your blog in my site too.
Domo arigato gozaimashita.
Mari
Posted by: Mari | January 23, 2006 at 10:17 AM
Thanks Mari. I love Nagasaki, too. One of my favourite cities in Japan, and not too far from where I live.
Thank you for linking my blog. I have linked your main site, too. It's under 'Interesting
site about Tokyo....' in the right hand column.
Ray Kinnane
Posted by: Ray Kinnane | January 23, 2006 at 11:16 AM
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Inventor
Posted by: D.W. Major | February 27, 2010 at 06:38 AM