Chinese in Nagasaki

The influence that Chinese culture has had on Japan is quite obvious, including the adoption of written language characters, religion, the acquisition of staple foods such as gyoza, ramen and champon noodles and nikuman (steamed pork buns), fireworks, and the development of Chinatowns in several large cities. But perhaps nowhere in Japan is this influence more obvious than in the southern port city of Nagasaki.

Entrance to a high-class Chinese restaurant

Of course internationally famous now for being one of the only two cities in the world to have suffered from atomic bombing, Nagasaki is also well-known within Japan as the first city to have had major contact with the Chinese. Portugese ships had arrived in Japan in 1571, to establish missions, and trade centres. Fearing colonization, the Japanese first persecuted, and then completely expelled all Portugese and their families by 1639.

 The Chinese arrived in Japan around 1600, a few years later than the Portugese, and quickly established trade routes through Nagasaki. By the early 1700s, Nagasaki was seeing nearly 200 Chinese ships annually, and one sixth of the population of Nagasaki were from China.

Chinatown gate

Unlike the Portugese, the Chinese were allowed to stay in Nagasaki, and to continue trading, although this was restricted by both the Ming rulers in China, and the Japanese Shogun-ate government.  During the 17th century Tokugawa confined the Chinese citizens of Nagasaki to an area of the city that is now approximately where the current Chinatown stands. Japanese residents were not allowed in, and the Chinese were only allowed out to attend shrines that had been built outside this area before the restriction. The Chinese had to be accompanied by Japanese officials. And Chinese trading ships entering Nagasaki port were restricted in number, but the trade continued unbroken right through the Tokugawa period, and all restrictions were lifted in 1859, just before the fall of the Shogun-ate, and the reinstatement of the Meiji emperor.

Fortune slip burner, and Sofukuji small temple building

Several important Buddhist monks entered Nagasaki at this time, escaping from persecution by the new Ming rulers of China, and helped establish their religion in Nagasaki. Their presence is still obvious today in several important landmarks that are now major tourist attractions in Nagasaki, such as Sofukuji temple, and Megane-bashi (spectacles bridge), one of the most photographed landmarks in Nagasaki, so named for its spectacles like appearance when the water level and light coincide.

Decorative eaves at Sofukuji, and processional dragon

Sofukuji temple is a very fine example of a buddhist temple of Chinese origin. It differs from its later Japanese counterparts in its highly decorated eaves, the small altar that is generally much simpler and plainer than Japanese temples, and the presence of a fortune tablet burner in its grounds. In Chinese temples patrons can purchase a wooden, or paper fortune slip, and burn it in the appropriate receptacle to make the prediction come true. In Japanese temples these slips are usually hung from trees, or designated structures.

The gate at Sofukuji, and one of the gate guardians.

The gate of Sofukuji is a very early, and very fine example of a Chinese temple entrance in Japan, having been transported from Fujian in 1629.

There is also a wonderful Confucian temple and mausoleum, the only one located outside China, built in 1893 by the local Chinese residents at that time. It is a unique blend of architectural styles from both Southern and Northern China. Behind the temple is a wonderful museum, housing artifacts, pottery and clay figures on permanent loan from Beijing.
Confucian temple roof detail, and Megane bashi

There are several small, and very original Chinese temples situated up the hill at the rear of Chinatown. They do not get much publicity in tourist guides, but are worth seeking out, and examining as early examples of Chinese Buddhist influence in Japan.

The Chinese residents of Japan also celebrate their heritage every October, with a festival, the Nagasaki Kunchi, which originated as an anti-Christian festival in 1634., It now celebrates the trade between Japan and China, and features a famous dragon dance, utilizing beautifully made, ornate processional dragons.
Small, old shrine and ornate door of Sofukuji

If you get the chance to visit Nagasaki, it is well worth it. It is a long haul from the usual tourist destinations of Tokyo and Kyoto, but it is quite a different city to the usual that you will find in Japan. It is unusually hilly, as distinct from the extremely flat locations of other major cities, has a very beautiful harbor, which can be best seen from Glover Garden (see Meiji houses article here), and the strong Chinese influence makes it a very unique culinary and sightseeing experience.   

Some more historical information here.

RK

Comments

[marlof]

Your earlier mention of Chinatown made me wonder about the Chinese influence in Japan. This post helps me understand it a bit better. I really like the color, detail and composition of your images, Ray. Keep up the good work!

[Romar Armas]

Thanks for the history on the Chinese influence in Japan. I knew about it but never knew where it came from. Love the pictures too.

[Ray Kinnane]

Thanks marlof, thanks Romar. Of course there were a lot of other points of contact between China and Japan, but Nagasaki was certainly very significant. Especially during the 300 years that Japan was closed to all but the Chinese and Dutch in Nagasaki. And the Chinese presence was far greater than the Dutch, although a lot of historians don't write it that way. There were only ever a handful of Dutch housed on Dejima in Nagasaki, but up to ten thousand Chinese, at one point in time.

Ray Kinnane